Hampi Diaries: A petition to rename 'ruins' to 'magnificient'

Who should read this?

This blog is for everyone who loves to travel, whether it’s to Hampi or elsewhere. While I’ll delve into the history of Hampi and cover the usual topics like how to get there and what to expect, this blog is also for those who may not enjoy traveling but are interested in exploring new perspectives. Throughout the blog post, I’ll share the deepest thoughts I recorded during this adventure. I hope it helps you broaden your perspective!

What on Earth is Hampi?

TL;DR: Hampi is a land of fantasy, featuring otherworldly landscapes, captivating rice fields, and an impressive history with monuments from the richest Hindu empire of its time – the Vijayanagar Empire. Located on the mighty Tungabhadra River in the Hosapete District of Karnataka, Hampi is a sight to behold. Its endless boulder landscapes and UNESCO World Heritage status highlight its collection of breathtaking monuments, which some may refer to as ruins but are truly magnificent.

As shown on the map, Hampi is divided into two distinct areas: the ruins of the Vijayanagara Empire and the hippie side, which is popular among the youth for various reasons.

Personally, I don’t find any appeal in intoxication, as the stunning views on the other side provide more than enough sensory pleasure on their own. Without further ado, let’s dive into the blog!

What all should I see?

1. Start with the famous Virupaksha Temple - the only functioning temple of Hampi.

Built in the famous Nagara style architecture of Southern India, the tower is 165ft high and spans 150ft with a length of 120ft. It is not known who built it or when was it built but Krishnadeva Raya renovated it many times.

Fun fact: Krishnadeva Raya is the king you would have heard about in all those Tenali Raman Stories. Dedicated to lord Shiva, this is one of the oldest functioning temples of not only Hampi but India itself. Right next to the Hampi bazaar, the temple has no entry fees and if you visit on time you can also have a look at the Temple Elephant called – "Laxmi".

A curious question popped into my mind while visiting this temple – why of all the temples in Hampi, this was left during the invasions and is still functioning? I popped this question to my guide and to my surprise he did have an answer.

At the beginning of the temple, there is the flag of the Vijayanagara Empire on a pillar, and unlike other Hindu empires, it didn't have the Sun or the Lion but a Pig instead. And since most of the invasions were from Islamic rulers, places with pig inscriptions were spared!

In all honesty, I still don't know the veracity of this fact but that's what makes history interesting – it's all about forming perspectives with something that doesn't exist anymore.

2. The stories of Ramayana on the ceilings of Virupaksha Temple

Stories of Ramayana painted on the ceiling with vegetable juices

A lot of the people visit the temple but don't care to look up? Up there on the ceiling are beautiful paintings from Ramayana, the great Indian epic.

Seeing the stories of Ramayana engraved over the temples on the other end of India led to a very different perspective about India. I Always wondered how India flourishes together as a country. To think of it - North India has no connection to South India through language, architecture, or even culture to some extent but it still feels one and familiar.

That reason I think is Hinduism No matter which part of India we go to — each place has its own legends of Ramayana and Mahabharata.

The idea of India ceases to exist without Hinduism?

3. Bow down at Kadalekalu Ganpathi

A huge monolithic Ganpathi idol is installed in this temple and is a sight to behold. What's even more interesting is the Romanesque pillars of the temple which make you feel like you are there in ancient Greece, especially with those clear skies of Hampi.

Does it tell us something about the globalization during the Vijayanagara Empire? There are already records of trades from all over the world in Hampi and can be aptly seen from the architectural inspirations!

3. Spend some time at the ruins of Pan Supari Bazaar of Hampi

Not a very famous site and not covered by many bloggers – but I found this one of the most memorable ruins in Hampi. Maybe the picture will say it all:

pan supari bazar — Petition 1 to rename ruins to magnificent

The reason for a curious name like this for such an important street is a mystery. However, this name is mentioned in an inscription of Devaraya II, confirming the name's authenticity. On the lighter side, you'll see a great deal of areca nut plantations near the Royal Center!

Legend has it that traders from all over the world used to come here to trade all kinds of spices and other things - making Hampi the second richest city in the world of its time!

4. Experience royalty at the royal enclosure

Royal enclosure is a complex and the seat of the mighty Vijayanagara empire. In it’s prime the enclosure housed 45 buildings that also had the great platform, durbal halls, tanks, and underground chambers.

Right now it has three main sites:

The great platform

This is a raised platform with a majestic view. Legend has this that the platform was used by the king to see Dussehra/Navrati celebrations back then. On the lower sidewall of the structure, you’ll also find many war carvings.

And hey, I also made really good friends on this new (great) platform!

We need more women in workforce.

Again my curiosity led me to ask my new friends what they are doing travelling as a female group in Hampi, since we see so few female travellers in India. On probing them I found that the new government change has allowed free travel across Karnataka for ladies in public buses.

And therefore I could see hordes of middle aged females travelling independently in Hampi. To think of it, if one free scheme can enable women to travel freely, what would more women in workforce do to women mobility and freedom?

aadhar card women — Aadhar card women”. Women are able to travel for free just by showing their aadhar.

The underground chamber

I do not have any photos of this because it was underground and no light was there. Moreover, it was used to question spies and so any information about it could land me in trouble, right?

The Stepped Tank

This is 5 to 6 tier super symmetrical structure which you would want to call “Aesthetic” in pure genz lingo. The stepwell was used by the royalty to take baths and purify themselves before any rituals/prayers. The black schist stones used to make the stepwell ensure that the water is heated and purified.

5. Take a peek at The Lotus Mahal, The Elephant Stables, and Laxmi Narsimhan Temple

Lotus Mahal

Built in the shape of eponymous lotus, this structure is example of indo-islamic architecture of Vijayanagara empire and was used to house the royal muslim women of the empire.

Elephant Stables

The larger the empire, the larger is it’s elephantry. So it’s only natural that a place should be there for the mighty creatures to reside. This long structure was used to provide shelter to the elephants and has domes in all Hindu, muslim, and Jain architecture.

Laxmi Narsimhan Temple

This temple is dedicated to Lord Narsimha, who is one of ten avatars of Vishnu. You might be surprised that this is a monolith statue and the largest one too!

vishnu incarnation — Two Avatars of Vishnu in one pic

A note to the reader

In this blog I’ll try to cover only the side of Hampi that deals with Vijaynagara empire, that is one side of the river. Hampi is so marvellous that writing it all in one blog won’t do justice to the place and the legend. The blog is about to end very quickly but I'll be back with the second part very soon.

6. How can you visit Hampi without the mandatory pic at the Stone Chariot?

The stone chariott at Vitthala Temple complex is the famous stone chariot that you see behind the 50 Rupees note. This dravidian architectural marvel was commissioned by KrishnaDeva Raya after he got fascinated with the chariott at Konark Temple right after winning a war in Odisha.

Alright folks, that’s it from my end about Day 1 in Hampi. I’ll see you in another blog post for Day 2, 3 and counting!

Okay, wait - what about the eateries, how to reach etc part? I’m a man of my words, so there you go:

How to reach Hampi?

Given the magical nature of Hampi, you can also go via Platform Nine and a three quarters.

For muggles, here is what I would suggest:

By Train

Hampi does not have a railway station. The nearest Railway station is Hospet, which is around 12 km from Hampi.

There are direct trains from Mysore and Bangalore for Hospet. The best option will be to take “Hampi Express” which starts from Mysore and goes to Hampi via Bangalore. The train starts from Mysore at 6:40 PM, reaches Bangalore city Junction around 10 PM and reaches Hospet around 7:00 PM.

For Hospet to Hampi, you can take either a tuk-tuk (INR 250-INR 300) or local bus (INR 20). The buses run from 6:00 AM till 10:30 in the night.

By Bus

There are direct buses for Hampi/ Hospet from Mysore, Goa, Mumbai, Bangalore and Gokarna. The bus will cost anywhere between INR 1,000 to 2,000 depending on the type you are opting (sleeper/ semi sleeper/ non-sleeper) for.

While travelling by bus, be ready for a bumpy ride! Check out all the bus options here – www.redbus.com

By Flight

Hampi does not have an airport. The nearest airport is Hubli which is around 150 km away from Hampi. You will need to hire a taxi from Hubli airport to reach Hampi.

You can also take a flight to bangalore and then travel by bus from bangalore.

Where to eat?

I'm not much of a foodie so I'll be of little help here.

Rest assured, there are a lot of good cafes and local markets in Hampi that you can spend some time at. Listing down some good eateries in no particular order here:

Mango Tree Restaurant
Gopi Guesthouse
Funky Monkey

Important Tips for Your Trip

Carry enough cash – The nearest ATM is in Hospet, which is 12 km away from Hampi. Debit/credit cards are not accepted at almost all places in Hampi.
Low mobile network – Not all parts of Hampi have a good network connection. Some of the cafes and hotels have good Wi-Fi (Gopi Guest House, Chilled Out Café, Laughing Buddha Café in Hippie Island).
Carry toiletries, towel, etc. – Hampi guesthouses offer basic amenities, so it’s a good idea to bring your own toiletries and towel.
Peak season travel – If you are traveling to Hampi during peak season, book your stay and travel in advance to avoid paying double charges for hotels.
Bargain – Like other parts of India, keep the bargain hustle going in Hampi, especially if you are not an Indian.
What to wear – Preferably cotton clothes. There is no restriction or dress code for visiting monuments.
Alcohol – Alcohol is not allowed in the heritage side of Hampi. Some of the cafes in the Hippie Island do offer alcohol; you can check with them.

Final Thoughts

Hampi is not just a destination; it’s an experience that stays with you long after you leave. The historical significance, architectural marvels, and the sheer beauty of the place make it a must-visit for anyone interested in history, architecture, or simply exploring new places.

If you ever get the chance, make sure to visit Hampi and immerse yourself in its charm. And remember, the next time you hear the word ‘ruins,’ think of it as ‘magnificent’ and let your imagination take you to a time when Hampi was at its zenith!

ANKIT JAIN